I] The idea:

When you have holidays to take, a little money side and that you are in love with Mediterranean, you feel the desire to discover original spots. To go some sspots where perhaps nobody have surf. Since some months, a large rock located in Middle-East draws my attention.  648km of sandy and rock coasts, which makes of it the third island of Mediterranean sea after Sardinia and Sicily: Cyprus.

II] The destination:

In Antiquity, it belonged to a broad world hellenistic. Towards 1450 front. J.-C., Mycenians founded a colony there. Then, in 1000 before J.-C., it was the turn of  Phénicians. It was included in the Roman Empire, then in the Byzantine Empire. In 1191; Richard Coeur de Lion seized the island and made of it gift with Guy de Lusignan, who founded the Latin kingdom of Cyprus (1192 - 1489). It passed then under the control of Venice (1489-1573), before being conquered by the Turks. In 1878, the sultan yielded Cyprus in lease to the United Kingdom.  In 1914, at the end of the First World War, the United Kingdom made of Cyprus a colony of the crown in reprisals to the support of the Othoman Empire for Germany. The island saw its aspirations with independence and fastening in Greece repressed hard by the introduction of a military mode.

The British imposed their laws, their legal system, their public administration, their culture, their language and their way of life. In 1931, the Cypriot Greeks raise themselves against the British, the house of the governor was set fire to and the suspended Constitution. The movement in favour ofEnosis (enosis: "union" in Greek) took again width in the years 1950. Under the aegis of the bishop of Cyprus, Mgr Makarios III, the Cypriot ones of Greek language claimed the departure of the British and, consulted by the ecclesiastical hierarchy (in January 1950), decided with nearly 96 % in favour of the union with Greece. The negotiations on the Cypriot question marked by the rival interests of Great Britain, Greece and Turkey led to the agreements of Zurich (1959) which envisaged the independence of the island (1960) in the shape of a gréco-Turkish presidential republic.

Independence was proclaimed on August 16, 1960, and Cyprus was allowed in the United Nations and became member of the Commonwealth. However, in 1974, one the northern third of the island was occupied by the Turkish armed forces and forms, de facto, a separate State (by the "green Line" (name given by UNO) called since 1983 Turkish Republic of Cyprus of North, and only recognized by Turkey. May 1, 2004, the Republic of Cyprus (the Greek part) uses the European Union. The resumption of negotiations between the two communities, and any progress towards a solution with this conflict which has separated in fact the two communities for more than forty years, seems from now on largely conditioned by the projection of the negotiations of accession of Turkey in Europe...

- Capital: Nicosy 
- Population: 835 000 (in 2005) 
- official Languages: Greek, Turkish as well as very widespread English

III] Before the trip::

On Internet i finish by find a plane ticket at a reasonable price via London, a rented car and a camping site really not expensive to spend 13 days on the island. Although everyone once more seems to take me for insane to leave at the end of August (in full Summer) on this hazardous mediterranean destination, at least a board should me be taken. Longboard? Shortboard or Fish surfboard?  Which conditions, I will have, if I have some...?  to play the safety, I decide to take the fish surfboard which is most general-purpose and the least cumbersome, but unfortunately for me the added transport charges appear more expensive than the board. With my tight budget (And yes! Between richness and surfing, I have make my choice...), only one solution is offered to me, it is necessary that I rent one of them on the island. Yes, but with which?

IV] The Departure:

 After three long months of waiting, one period of uncertainty related to the terrible Israelian-libanese conflict  the abominable oil slick which in rose, with the various terrorist threats on the United Kingdom and a strike notice of Cyprus Airways (finally raised the day before of my departure), I flew away of London to land in Larnaka (located at the SE of the island) 4h later. Joined by two very good friends (Fabienne and Julien which unfortunately for me, is not interested more in surfing that with the reproduction of the iguanas of South America), the one week space, I  decided to divide my stay into two. First of all the visit of the island in their charming company, then (only) the discovery of the spots and surfing, while keeping the hope of a favorable weather.

V] I°week: the visit of the island

Although control on the left is not a luxury at the beginning, it makes it possible to discover the heritage of several civilizations. With the crossroads of the East and Occident, Cyprus as you could read it previously (see part II note), has a very complex and animated past. Thus, it is possible to admire innumerable archeological sites, mosques, churches, monasteries but also  gardens, parks and landscapes... Since we are on a site of surfing, this part will not appear in the article. However most interested will find their happiness while clicking here: The visit of the island.

VI] II° Week: The discovery of the spots and surfing:

- Thursday August 31: It is 16h, I has just deposited my friends with the airport. Although the sun lies down earlier than in France (19h30), it sufficiently remains me of time to go to see one of the innumerable spots seen or bodysurfés in the week.

Boxed in charming and quiet a small split, I find a spot which offers waves of 50 to 80cm in which the tourists have fun. Not having had time to recover the board (on the other side of the ïle), it any more but does not remain me to join them in bodysurf. It is not super quality (one-Shore and a little slackness) but that remains very amusing and largely surfable.

Separately the landscape, one would be believed in the house a few weeks earlier with the blows of SE. At my exit of water, I meet one of the persons in charge for the club of beach which often makes windsurf or for the optimist in the corner. Apparently, on this part of the island, there are vaguenesses every afternoon in Summer thanks to the strong thermal wind which rises the morning towards 9h related to the difference in temperature between the air (38°c with 9h of the morning) and water (26°c).

More with the shelter that its neighbors, this small split in the corner, however to be able surfer, should me be recovered a board seems to be a good compromise... Of return to the camp-site, I sink on the first phone box and calls Christophe. After some indications, one gives oneself appointment the next morning.

- Friday 1° Septembre: 8h. I meet Christophe. Between its school and its Surfing shop, it preserves in its garage of the matos for the hiring. Wings of kite, windsurfs and three shortboards of which two were already rented?!!! Apparently of English would have had the same idea as me this week. On a certain side that falls rather well I would not be all alone with water... It thus introduces to me my new partner of voyage for the week: a Biro 6' 7 evolutionary.

It is often said that the world is small, or that the chance makes the things well. That seems to be once more the case, his/her parents live in the Aude, with a score of kilometers of at home. Christophe was besides on their premises, a few times ago. Unfortunately, it fell over two weeks from strong icy tramontana, and could not too much sail. Because you hang;  here the temperature of water goes down only to 18°c and that from the air that to 12°c in full February!!! From December to Mars, on the Mount Olympe (1955m of altitude in the solid mass of Troodos) at one hour of road of the coast, the air is close to 0°c, snow holds and the tracks open!

It is possible to make snow the morning, to go down again and to be launched in kite or surfing the afternoon.

The winter, the island transforms itself into "Chyprefornia".

According to him for the days to come, the wind remains very favorable for Kite. Side surfing, that seem average, but as he says "All depends, of time in Greece. It is possible that that returns well in the week... " To be sure that I find conditions; it indicates to me on a chart several places likely to accomodate way optimal the least small swells.

 After leavehaving left it and nicely thanked, I in edge sea goes to note with pleasure that there is swell with waves from 50 to 80 cm which unroll in various splits, beaches or flagstones, unfortunately the thermal wind (one-Shore) is rising...

Rather than to launch to me, I decide to take the advice of Christophe and to return to me on the places indicated. Half an hour later, I end up discovering along the road, a multitude of peaks on sand bottom and rollers, where the wind by place proves to be offshore oil rig.

With more formed swell, waves of 1m unroll in a transparent water blue green with the exotic reflections.

It makes more 35°c and as I am not there to make car or figuration, it is necessary that I decide to choose a peak.

There is not a soul and it is perfect. I put myself where? On this peak? This one? That one?...

I find finally my happiness. I stop along the road on a dirt track beaten and surfe more than two hours, on this peak left right-hand side of excellent quality.

 Nobody at the horizon, separately the road the place remains beautiful and wild on this part of the island where anarchistic constructions remain prohibited...

Thirst for discovery, still far from the "green line", I take again the wheel...

 Foot-note bene: To cross the "green line" to go Turkish side, with a Greek vehicle of hiring is not obvious. Moreover, there is necessary to return before 18h not to remain wedged under pretext of clandestine immigration...

At this beginning of afternoon, I thus continue the road, finds several other spots, but unfortunately become the thermal one-Shore wind too extremely, makes them impracticable. Damage, because the configuration of the rock flagstones promised a very good session if the wind had been more lenient. Ten kilometers further, I see pretty waves on a beach sheltered by the dams of a small port.

It is the occasion dreamed to find clean conditions like this morning. Asphalt does not go down until in bottom, it is necessary to take a dirt track, to be parked then to go. I try to bring me closer, my camera with the hand. Unfortunately I could not go further. A soldier challenges me and explains me that I am on the territory of a base of the O.N.U. The photographs are moreover more strictly prohibited! 

Such an amount of worse for the photographs and the waves. I make half-turn and take again the road, which always skirts the littoral. The wild beaches and splits are of an incredible beauty, the wind is side-Shore there on the other hand the swell is badly directed there.

Fifteen minutes later, reaching the green line kept by two Greek Cypriot soldiers, I resign myself to turn back. Between the military bases and the green line, to lead becomes tiresome on this part of the island. Why wouldn't I see, if on the other coast the waves of this morning did not increase?

One hour of road, arrived later close to my starting point, I note that the wind reached force 4 in gusts and that the swell makes more than one meter in series. After having followed a hazardous dirt track, I fall on a splendid bay. Although the conditions are one-Shore, the spot reveals several sympas waves. And a guy has apparently there who surfe?!!! It is English of the island of Jersey which east on holiday. Since it saw waves (3 years before), it decided to leave a board at the year in its second home.

Miss pot, I would owe surfer alone once more. Burst after its two sessions, it decides to leave. It advises me however to fix me with the shorebreak: "It is fast and more powerful than with the broad one, although that closes per moment there is what to make". You astonish me!! Indeed, it is even an excellent spot with Bodyboard. In surfing, one should not miss the walk of the bottom, to be fixed some caps or small tubes before benefitting from the second section slower.

 After one hour, filled of pretty waves and exemplary mess tins the head planted in sand, I decide to seek other spots in the corner. I discover not far from there, a large shorebreak (exclusively reserved in Bodyboard, on bottom of sand and rollers), as several others pointbreaks which seem to require a little more size to function correctly.

The weakening wind of this end of afternoon, decides to me to turn over on my steps, the history of surfer of the waves a little cleaner on the spot of presently.

With my great surprise, two surfers are with water. They were fixed on a peak right-hand side-left outside in a pretty rather clean meter  twenty.

Finally somebody with whom I will be able surfer! Surely buildings. I join them and tries to leave my best Greek (limited) learned on Internet. - "Yia penny!" (Hello). Both answer me very in a friendly way, surprised but very glad to see another type with water.

I try to continue with my interlocutor nearest: " Imé galhos. Mé léné Willi. Ke Ti?  (I am French. I am called Willi. And you?). "Mé léné Nick. Galhos? Apo isé?  (My name is Nick. French? Where de you come from ?).

Becoming complicated all to explain in Greek, I start to speaking in English explaining to him that I am South of France, that I surfe in the Mediterranean for a few years, that I created an Internet site (which it seems to know via Christophe), which I have been here to visit and surfer the spots of the island. He answers me that he is Australian of Greek origin and that he has lived on Cyprus for a few months with his wife. He found job as an engineer in the building.

The longboarder also is Australian for him, it lives here since 2 years and surfe this spot very often. Apparently, tomorrow morning that must be very good.

This evening it is already really not badly. The occasion to be joined by a Swedish bodyboardor here for the season!!! Cyprus is so cosmopolitan, that one crosses of all nationalities. English being spoken everywhere, one to live the island and all little to include/understand without speaking a word about Greek or Turk.

In this end of day, environment with water is more convivial, the splendid framework and to lay down it exceptional sun.

While having benefitted from a surfing of very good quality, I made sympathetic nerves meetings. Nick gives me besides go the next morning...

A Greek salad superbly prepared by the owner of the camp-site followed of a small turn to the cyber local coffee (to confirm the weather conditions), decide to me to lie down early to be in form at daybreak...

- Saturday September 2: 6h. Awaked by the noise of the waves on the rocks, I hurry of lunching.

The wind is offshore oil rig. I have appointment with 7h30 with Nick. I thus have largely the time of "checker" the spots of the day before which required more "size".

Side swells: there is 1m with 1m50, clean, long and arranged. With the turning of a dirt track and a banana plantation, I discover a Cypriot pearl. A line of 300m which unrolls on several peaks!!!

The same undulation, but several waves with the same characteristics. To know: a bottom made up of large stones or rocks (the entry and the exit of water besides are tended enough), a followed quiet takeoff of a broad section on which one can accelerate to type two or three rollers then to stick itself to foam to see the wave being rolled up all alone around oneself and making a pretty tube or a wipe copious out.

By taking a little speed and if that connects correctly, the wave does not finish any any more...

It is a spot "semi fold". The more one shifts towards the line, the more the waves are small (because of orientation of bay).

Thus, the spot (more sheltered) accomodates less swell, but also makes it possible to profit from a cross-wind when one-Shore prevails everywhere else.

An element major to take into account for these afternoon of calamitous thermics.

Some very good followed waves of an exit Rock'n'roll Roll in stones and it is already the hour to join the Australian one, which has just arrived on the spot of the day before...   

The conditions are good. The peak offers as many lefts as lines. Nick which travels much, (between the Greek islands, Greece, Cyprus, Portugal, France, Spain, Australia or Hawaii (throwing itself as well on the Pipe as in Sunset)), benefits from the conditions in heart joy.

I join it. Its fish or my evolutionary even seems to be a little right for today...

Towards 9h, one sees two other surfers. Harry, New Yorkais of African southern origin (on holiday with its wife and its two children (come years ago, it thought of taking its board)) and English of the day before. Me which thought of being the only tourist surfer of the island!! I am more surprised!

On Cyprus; in all and for all, there is only one ten local surfers. The others (often of the Anglo-Saxons) are of passage... One hour later, the swell starts to become clapoteuse. The wind is turning to one-Shore. Nick decides to put the veils.

- "It is the weekend, is necessary that I return if not my wife still will assassinate me!! I leave you my number on your car. Call me this evening, you will say to me how that evolved/moved. One sees oneself tomorrow morning, I would bring you another of my boards ".

 I thank it and, continuous with surfer under conditions in bulk but quite as consistent. Towards 12h, Harry decides to leave in its turn, I am it, giving him go to the next morning. After a short meal, and a good nap in the shade, I decide to leave to the adventure on the reserved dirt tracks to the 4X4.

The rented car seems to pass in the majority of the places, even if I hear odd stone noises striking driving bottom. After tens of kilometers, I arrive in the natural reserve of the island, where several species of turtles are raised and reintroduced on a beach: Article "Cypriot tortoises".

It is the most wild corner of the island: nobody, not of road, not of house, just you, nature and in some splits: waves like that one...

With a side-Shore wind, this "point station-wagon, ideal for the longboard, unroll in a regular way (neither too slackness, nor too rapid), with a rather long shoulder (allowing long cutbacks) which makes you regret being alone with surfer and not to dare to remain longer!

The road is long. The peaks on rock bottom are as for them so numerous, that it is not possible of all to test them. Moreover it is even dangerous to be launched only in these insulated corners.

After 30km of dirt tracks, coupled frights along cliffs and rises of coasts à.fond in first, leaned in front of fear which the car does not put on the roof, I decide exténuer to return to the camp-site.

It is 19h. I surfé still well today. A good shower and a good meal will be welcome...

- Sunday September 3:7h. I rise courbaturé of everywhere. Although I do not hear the waves, there are inevitably good remainders. I pass by the beach, and see me very quickly that there is just more 50cm. the Australian one arrives in its turn...

It is small, but it is surfable and glassy, then now that one is there, one is launched nevertheless. On this sand bank, encircled by flagstones of russet-red limestones, the shorebreak walk with the least small swell. That is not worth the surfing of the day before but that remains amusing.

After 1h30 of surfing, coupled stories of trip surfing in the Greek islands, in Spain or in Portugal,  being reinforced the one-Shore wind, convinces us to take our last wave. On the beach, one finds an old plagist, that Nick knows well. It is tous.les.jours there since years: "It is more reliable than any model weather". For him the swell will go up in the afternoon, tomorrow morning will be well too. Tuesday idem. On the other hand for Wednesday and Thursday it will be flat.

A weather for the three next days that I will hasten to check on Internet dice that possible. For the hour, I greet Nick which I would not have the occasion to re-examine before my departure. One benefits from it to exchange our e-mail, being surely given  go for a future "trip Mediterranean surfing".

I benefit from the infernal heat of the beginning of afternoon, to return to me to the cyber air-conditioned coffee and to note with joy that "Mister Cyprus weather" was right. Another train of swell is envisaged this afternoon and another tomorrow in the course of the day.

At the end of the afternoon I leave the camp-site and discovers not far from the port, a left on bottom of rock. The wind does not have badly weakens compared to presently and the swell has seemed to have doubled for this morning.

There is 80cm which unrolls along the rocks, the setting with water is once more complicated but the vague remainder very correct in spite of the clapot.

While returning,  I see since the road; long lines, smoothed by the offshore oil rig wind characteristic of the beginning of evening. Tomorrow morning announces itself promising...

- Monday September 4: 7h00. The old plagist was right indeed (models also besides). On a few kilometers, I discover a multitude of other spots. Right-hands side, lefts on sand bottom or rocks. It is enough to choose...

There however the memory of the waves of Saturday morning, pushes me with going to throw a glance. That is likely to be smaller than elsewhere but of better quality.

On the other peaks, time is counted to me. Knowing that the one-Shore wind, rises towards 9h30-10h, it less remains me than two hours to benefit from the wind off.

Over there, even if that turns to the marine breezes, I will profit because of exposure from the spot, of a cross-wind.

Once on the spot, I note that it is not large surfing, but there are perfect 50 with 80cm which unrolls, vis-a-vis with the banana plantation. The occasion to benefit from it a maximum...

In the afternoon, I take the road in direction of the south 1m in series, prevails along the littoral. Thus I turn over on an archeological site since which one dominates the sea. There, along cliffs, the waves are clean and regular.

The old ones do not have suspects it not set up, their temple here by chance. Perhaps were they measured already with the waves between two drives in the house of the gladiators? Cyprus is the island of Aphrodite (goddess of the beauty). Wouldn't Poséidon (God of the sea) try to allure it while sending to him of so beautiful waves?

This completed additional session, profiting one to lay down sun except standard, with the tone orange, I cannot prevent myself from having the smile with the lips. I is with more 3000km from home, it is the Summer, I am always in the Mediterranean, and I surfe tous.les.jours of the more incredible and different spots the ones that the others. The come evening,  I sink on Internet, hoping that the forecasts weather return my last days on the island quite as profitable. Apparently, the swell is maintained still tomorrow...

- Tuesday September 5: Towards 7h, I sink with the beachbreak nearest. 1m of yesterday, there remain very clean 50 with 80cm, unrolling in a very pretty shorebreak in a water of a crystalline limpid blue.

In edge of beach, the old plagist is there, faithful to his station. Although I include/understand only one word out of hundred (and it is little to say it) so that it tries to tell me, it is always a pleasure of greeting it. After a meticulous person cleaning of the beach; soiled by irresponsible tourists who take the edge of sea for a genuine dustbin;  it installs the few deckchairs and parasols which it has. During this time, I benefit from  the pretty waves which the sea wants to offer to me well under the attentive eye of the Cypriot lizards (with body of iguana and head of small crocodile).

After midday, I redirect myself towards my small preferred lines, whose stony bottom manages to channel this weakening swell. It is necessary to wait a little to benefit from the largest series, however the waves with height of thighs remain largely surfables. At the end of the day, I launch myself on a hazardous sand bank, benefitting from the last gleams this to lay down orange sun, of which Cyprus with the secrecy...

- Wednesday September 6: 9h. Survey later than usually, I note as provided that the swell is unimportant this morning. With less 50cm in series, it is essential to have a longboard to be launched. Between bathe, bodysurf, attempt at surfing and bronzette, my last day on Cyprus touches at its end. I thank managing it for the camp-site for his reception, Christophe for his invaluable councils before returning my rented car and awaiting the 6h morning of my takeoff.

- Thursday September 7:  As I had considered, Cyprus remains a very good destination, with that which loves surfer in the Mediterranean. In addition to the surfing, that which likes to sail, to have fun the festival, to eat, slacken or discover vestiges of old civilizations will not be disappointed while coming here.

It is 7h30. Between two drowsinesses, the head pressed on the port-hole I see a massive swell attacking very cut out coasts. We are flying over the archipelago which constitutes Greece. Surfing must there be also very good, but this is another history...

Willi

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